Sucre and spice and all things nice

AFTER yet another delayed flight and waiting around for three hours at yet another Bolivian airport, we finally made it to Sucre, the state capital.

The flight was just 30 minutes from Santa Cruz so it hardly seemed worth it but apparently flying was the best way to get into the city. There is just one road into Sucre which winds around the mountains and takes up to eight hours.

Staying close to the main square and the Cathedral Metropolitana we were in the very heart of the city.
Instantly from all the bars, tourist offices and adverts for Spanish classes, it was obvious this place was a favourite with backpackers.

In just two days I had seen the most young travellers from abroad since Rio de Janeiro.

And it is easy to see why it is so popular. It is dirt cheap. In fact, the whole country is the same. You can have a decent meal and a drink for less than £5. On the first night I paid just 18 bolivianos (£1.80) for a mojito, which can be anything between £8-10 at home, if not more.

Called the White City for all its white washed buildings, Sucre is 2,700 metres above sea-level and I could feel the altitude (and temperature difference) almost as soon as I set foot off the plane.

On came the hoody, full length trousers and socks for the next few weeks.

Doing our own tour of the city we walked through the narrow, steep streets looking at shops selling all kinds of textiles and woollen items, including alpaca socks and jumpers (number 1 on my shopping list!)
We came across an indoor market which was fascinating to see but wasn’t the best for hygiene with raw meats on display, food being cooked and stray dogs wandering through.

As it was a Monday many things were closed again so we just had a wander, going past some of the 16 churches within a small area in the city.

Of the sites recommended to visit in the city were the Parque Cretacio, a display of dinosaur footprints which were found in limestone in the mountains while a cement quarry was being built. It was interesting and the dinosaur models were impressive but there was very little to do here and you could easily see everything in 30 minutes. It possibly wasn’t the city’s best attraction.

The next stop was Mirador Recoleta. This was not far from the main square but there was just one very steep road leading to it. In good preparation for the Inca Trail we huffed and puffed our way to the top but the views of the city made it all worthwhile. We spent a good hour sitting and taking in the view in the sunshine before racing back down.

There is definitely a much different vibe to Sucre than other places we have visited so far. Bolivians seem much placid than Brazilians but both share the same love of life, music, dance.

It was interesting to see many more indigenous Andean people walking among the other locals in their colourful ponchos and carrying their children or food in brightly designed bags on their backs.

Many are old, frail and wander through the streets begging. They are not afraid to shove a hat in your face or tug at your trousers to get some Bolivianos from you.

The next day was an early start. I had a crazy moment and booked myself on a horseback riding tour of Sucre at 6.30am! Living off just a few hours sleep and still a bit light-headed, we drove higher up into the countryside and trotted through fields. Children waved at us on their way to school, we went past women collecting sticks and rode past farm huts. It was a far cry from the centre of Sucre.

Just my luck I got stuck with the saddest, laziest and unfittest horse who really couldn’t be bothered to turn up for work that day, so I lagged way behind the whole group all the way.

Our guide who spoke no English and very fast Spanish found it pretty hilarious too. And the fact he thought my name was sanduiche (sandwich).

No matter how hard I tried or kicked my heels, Blanco did not want to play ball. Any slower and I may have fallen asleep en route.

The views, despite the cloudy weather and bits of rain, were stunning and the landscape totally different to other places we had visited on the tour.
It’s a shame we only had two days in Sucre because of our delayed flights but I think we made the most of it and it was totally worth a visit.

Even more exciting is the fact food here is much better than Brazil already. Breakfasts are the same but I was left disheartened by the lack of choice in Brazil. Everywhere were per kilo and buffet restaurants and most had the same foods and it was always bland. But so far in Bolivia I have had a great meal every night and even though we have been warned to try avoid dairy foods, I finally feel like I am eating. You have no idea how excited I got at the prospect of eating fish and vegetables!