LAKE Titicaca (or the lake of the black puma) is incredibly massive. It is split between Bolivia and Peru and its islands are home to thousands of people.
Our fun journey begins by being transported from the hotel in Puno, Peru to the harbour by little rickshaws. This was most definitely the quickest and most interesting way to get there. Although I was scared of other cars on the road who I didn’t think were going to stop for us sometimes. The second part of the journey was the interesting way they transported our entire coach on a raft to the other side of the lake.
Then we took a boat to the Islas de Uros (floating reed islands) which are 40 islands made from reeds. We were greeted by the families on one of the islands and given a quick demonstration of how they were created and how they move around. The women showed us around their houses which, although made from reeds, still have a small television or radio in them powered by one solar panel on the island.
We got to try on some of their colourful outfits which included a multicoloured long woolly hat for me because I’m “a single young girl” she said. She then said it’s only girls under 21 who wear that hat but I dared not tell her my real age unless she took it away from me. We then had a short boat ride around the other islands on a reed boat where we got some beautiful views of Lake Titicaca.
We also saw the school and the local bar/restaurant which floats on a separate island. It was amazing to learn about how the people live. Many of the men make their money fishing or hunting birds and then selling them on the mainland and the women spend their days making souvenirs for tourists who visit once or twice a week in the peak seasons. But the number of people living on the islands is falling as families move to the city for their children to go to secondary school, or to get better jobs.
We then had a three hour boat ride on Lake Titicaca to the Amantani Island where we would be staying the night with a local family.
The trek up to their house in the hills was enough to finish me off. Here we were kitted out in our hiking boots and most of the people on the island walked up and down the steep rocky paths in flimsy sandals or even barefoot.
My host family were young farmers who had two sons – an 18-year-old studying to become a tour guide at university in Puno and 12-year-old Brian (not the most Peruvian name!).
Their house was great. With five or six bedrooms, a dining room with a gas cooker, kitchen with a traditional clay oven and a two bathrooms in the courtyard. They even had showers so the bathroom looked just like any other house but unfortunately there was no running water so we couldn’t get too excited.
Peruvians, like Bolivians, are very short. The average height is about 5’4 and the Amantani people seemed even smaller. So, as expected, their ceilings are low too. I found out the hard way as I forgot to duck as I walked out of the kitchen and banged my head on the doorway. If I was struggling with the doorways god knows how anyone over 5ft 7 managed.
The mum of the family had prepared us a gorgeous lunch of quinoa soup, halloumi and three different types of potatoes and yams when we arrived. The food is all grown by the family and meat is only eaten on special occasions so I was well catered for.
The food was washed down with some Munya tea which is peppermint type herbs dropped into boiled water. Munya only grows at this height and is used to help you breathe and get used to altitude. I’m not a fan of tea but this stuff tasted and smelt good.
After lunch we were given ridiculous hats knitted by our families so they could easily recognise which foreigner was theirs. We then played a game of football with some of the locals which was ruined by another group of over-competitive Gringo tourists who took it far too seriously. It’s fair to say we were all beaten by the locals who lasted much longer than any of us foreigners who were out of breath within minutes at this altitude.
To finish a tiring day some of us hiked to the top of a hill on the island to see a temple. I puffed and panted my way up, and stopped for a sniff of some Munya on the way, but as my thighs ached I kept telling myself it was all part of my training for the Inca Trail. When we finally got to the top it was cold, but was a huge relief. We had a well deserved sit down and looked out at the views of Lake Titicaca. Seeing the sunset from there would have been incredible but sadly it was far too cloudy.
As we came down it had got darker and very cold. My hands were frozen and was scared of where I was putting my foot. But the locals were managing to walk through the uneven paths without a torch.
Dinner, I thought, would be small as our lunch was so filling, but it consisted of pasta, potatoes and rice – a whole lot of carbs. Clearly this is what gives the people the energy to walk up and down the island’s steep paths each day.
We sat and ate with the family in their small kitchen. They sat on stools while we sat on a bench and table which they had bought especially for the Gringos who struggle to eat from their laps! They had no idea as an Indian I was well trained on sitting on the floor and eating.
A fiesta had been organised for us in the evening where a group of young boys sang and played instruments while everyone else danced. We all got dressed up again in colourful skirts, flowered blouses and shawls. Everything was made from thick material and was all so heavy.
The boys got away with just a woolly hat and poncho. We all looked ridiculous, especially as us girls were still wearing our cargo trousers underneath the skirts to keep us warm and hiking boots. It wasn’t the best look.
The songs were long and repetitive but the dancing was fun. Then just as we were all getting ready to leave a huge storm hit the island. Hail was hitting the tin roof of the hall and forced us to stay there waiting for it to calm down before heading back to the house. When it had finally calmed down a little, the walk back in the dark was a task as the hail left a sheet of white outside on the fields.
I felt like an intruder in someone else’s house but I really enjoyed my evening with the Amantani family. The people on the island were all so happy, friendly and welcoming. They spoke Quechua among themselves and Spanish with us so we could still communicate a little. Many of them don’t have a major income and are self-sufficient. They get by with just the money they get from tourists and whatever corn and vegetables they can trade on the mainland. Electrical items and luxuries are minimal on the island but electricity for lights and a small TV come from a solar panel on the roof.
The following day we waved farewell to our families, thanked them for their hospitality and headed to Taquile Island. This island is more popular with the tourists purely for its stunning views of Lake Titicaca and for that reason the people here are more affluent.
The one hour boat ride over was horrible. I have never been on a boat when the water has been so rough and I tried all I could to forget the need to vomit. It was a joy to get off even if there was another steep walk waiting for us at the other end. Puffing and panting we walked to the main square.
On this island only the men knit and the women spin the wool. There were all kinds of nice things to buy here and it was great to relax and people watch. Our guide then took us to a quaint restaurant hidden among the houses and trees. The lunch here again was incredible. We were only given two options from the menu but that didn’t bother me. Fried bread with a spicy salsa dip (yum), grilled trout (the local speciality fish) and the best homemade chips I have had since leaving England. I just hoped I managed to digest it all before the three hour boat ride back to Puno.
Our fly by visit to Lake Titicaca was over almost too quickly. But it was totally enjoyable. Dressing up, being beaten at football by the locals, eating some fantastic food and a relaxing reed boat ride in the sunshine were the highlights. I know it is their job and helps with their family income but it was actually quite nice to spend some time with local people and get a better feel of what an average day is like for them.
